Ever since we got back to the States, people keep asking us one question, "What was it (Majuro) like?" There are so many different ways to answer that question and I think I've tried to answer it culturally, politically, economically and educationally; however, what I find is that it is incredibly challenging to answer this question. I have been to 25 different countries and The Marshall Islands are by far the most difficult place I've ever been to explain. I feel no matter how I answer that question, it is never a very good answer and it is always incomplete and the people that I describe it to inevitably get an incomplete description.
Any proper description of Majuro and the Marshall Islands has to start with the fact that it is incredibly tiny, especially to someone who is from Chicago. Majuro only has about 20,000 people in the entire Atoll, which actually makes it quite crowded since it is only about 12 square miles in total area. There is one major road, which doesn't really have a name, because when there is only one road there lacks a purpose to name it. There are parts of the road when you are driving where the Atoll is only about as wide as the road. On one side you have the crashing ocean waves and on the other is the placid beautiful lagoon. When I first saw a picture of the international airport in Majuro, I thought it was a photoshop joke, but it isn't. It really is a runway just put essentially in the middle of the ocean.
Majuro is small for sure, but it's people are what make this country so unique. Again it is difficult to describe the Marshallese people. The language is fascinating to listen to and there has only been a written language for less than 100 years. To me it seems there are two groups of Marshallese, the "well born" and those who struggle on a daily basis. There is a small minority of wealthy and powerful people who seem to have all the luxuries of a modern lifestyle, but then there is the majority. The unemployment rate hovers around 50% and there is neighborhood after neighborhood of shanty towns. There are an uncountable number of children who do not go to school and who roam Majuro on a daily basis, just hanging around. There seems to be a beautiful fatalism to Marshallese culture. Beautiful in that so many folks just go about living their daily lives with seeming little worry enjoying all the beautiful weather has to offer. The fatalism on the other hand is quite worrisome to a foreign westerner. There seems to be no sense of urgency in the culture to make the situation of the majority better, mostly it seems because it is and would be an impossible task.
The Marshall Islands is an incredibly poor country. The reason for this and their shockingly high unemployment rate is that there is no viable local industry now or in the near future. The only real economic activity seems to be the many local stores that sell exclusively imported goods, clothes and food. Virtually nothing is produced locally and therefore there is no way to employ the masses. People seem to think that this is the way it is and there is very little to be done to change the country in the future, hence what I see as a sense of fatalism.
My favorite part of Marshallese culture is the love of basketball. I love playing basketball and all of the hoops takes place outdoors in Majuro. Occasionally you'll have a rain delay, but there's nothing like playing hoops on a beautiful Marshallese evening. I love playing in the various leagues in Majuro and can't wait until my ankle heals so I can finally play again.
The food in the Marshall Islands is ok. It's not great and it's not bad, it's ok. You can buy almost anything there that you can buy in the States, but if you go to a grocery store and buy "American brands" then you better plan on paying at least 50% more in price. A bottle of beer is $2, yes one bottle, not a 6 pack. A box of Cheerios is about $8 and milk... well milk as it exists in America is seemingly not to be trusted in Majuro. Powder milk is the way to go as both times we got proper milk, it was spoiled. Restaurants really aren't that much more expensive than cooking yourself and there are a few good options there that we'll take advantage of several times a week. When you go out, salads are rare, but not bad. Burgers and pizza are common, but you can always find a good piece of fish!
Scientists have said that because of global warming these islands will be under water in less than 100 years, thus forcing all Marshallese people to abandon their homeland and become exiles somewhere, most likely in America. This will undoubtedly force upon the Marshallese people and their culture a massive evolution as they've already gone through in the past 150 years. They have journeyed from a primitive hunter-gatherer society focused around warfare and local traditions to a real melting pot culture that has mixed traditional Marshallese culture with that of modern capitalism and come out with something somewhat indescribable. They are a country dependent upon generous foreign aid and reparations from generations of disrespect, but the Marshallese are a unique people who are trying to adapt their lives to craziness of a fast paced modern society.
I am sure from this description you're more confused and even have less of an idea what Majuro and the Marshall Islands are like, but I tried. Maybe you just have to go there. I can also recommend a few fantastic books and films.
Books: Surviving Paradise by Peter Rudiak-Gould, and For the Good of Mankind by Jack Niedenthal
Films: Radio Bikini, and The Sounds of Crickets at Night
I think those would be more helpful than asking me, but here was my futile attempt and describing Majuro, The Marshall Islands and Marshallese culture. I'm quite certain there are those who have different opinions and I'd love to hear them...
No comments:
Post a Comment