What is Majuro like?

Ever since we got back to the States, people keep asking us one question, "What was it (Majuro) like?"  There are so many different ways to answer that question and I think I've tried to answer it culturally, politically, economically and educationally; however, what I find is that it is incredibly challenging to answer this question.  I have been to 25 different countries and The Marshall Islands are by far the most difficult place I've ever been to explain.  I feel no matter how I answer that question, it is never a very good answer and it is always incomplete and the people that I describe it to inevitably get an incomplete description.

Any proper description of Majuro and the Marshall Islands has to start with the fact that it is incredibly tiny, especially to someone who is from Chicago.  Majuro only has about 20,000 people in the entire Atoll, which actually makes it quite crowded since it is only about 12 square miles in total area.  There is one major road, which doesn't really have a name, because when there is only one road there lacks a purpose to name it.  There are parts of the road when you are driving where the Atoll is only about as wide as the road.  On one side you have the crashing ocean waves and on the other is the placid beautiful lagoon.  When I first saw a picture of the international airport in Majuro, I thought it was a photoshop joke, but it isn't.  It really is a runway just put essentially in the middle of the ocean.  

Majuro is small for sure, but it's people are what make this country so unique.  Again it is difficult to describe the Marshallese people.  The language is fascinating to listen to and there has only been a written language for less than 100 years.  To me it seems there are two groups of Marshallese, the "well born" and those who struggle on a daily basis.  There is a small minority of wealthy and powerful people who seem to have all the luxuries of a modern lifestyle, but then there is the majority.  The unemployment rate hovers around 50% and there is neighborhood after neighborhood of shanty towns.  There are an uncountable number of children who do not go to school and who roam Majuro on a daily basis, just hanging around.  There seems to be a beautiful fatalism to Marshallese culture.  Beautiful in that so many folks just go about living their daily lives with seeming little worry enjoying all the beautiful weather has to offer.  The fatalism on the other hand is quite worrisome to a foreign westerner.  There seems to be no sense of urgency in the culture to make the situation of the majority better, mostly it seems because it is and would be an impossible task. 

The Marshall Islands is an incredibly poor country.  The reason for this and their shockingly high unemployment rate is that there is no viable local industry now or in the near future.  The only real economic activity seems to be the many local stores that sell exclusively imported goods, clothes and food.  Virtually nothing is produced locally and therefore there is no way to employ the masses.  People seem to think that this is the way it is and there is very little to be done to change the country in the future, hence what I see as a sense of fatalism.  

My favorite part of Marshallese culture is the love of basketball.  I love playing basketball and all of the hoops takes place outdoors in Majuro.  Occasionally you'll have a rain delay, but there's nothing like playing hoops on a beautiful Marshallese evening.  I love playing in the various leagues in Majuro and can't wait until my ankle heals so I can finally play again.  

The food in the Marshall Islands is ok.  It's not great and it's not bad, it's ok.  You can buy almost anything there that you can buy in the States, but if you go to a grocery store and buy "American brands" then you better plan on paying at least 50% more in price.  A bottle of beer is $2, yes one bottle, not a 6 pack.  A box of Cheerios is about $8 and milk... well milk as it exists in America is seemingly not to be trusted in Majuro.  Powder milk is the way to go as both times we got proper milk, it was spoiled.  Restaurants really aren't that much more expensive than cooking yourself and there are a few good options there that we'll take advantage of several times a week.  When you go out, salads are rare, but not bad.  Burgers and pizza are common, but you can always find a good piece of fish!

Scientists have said that because of global warming these islands will be under water in less than 100 years, thus forcing all Marshallese people to abandon their homeland and become exiles somewhere, most likely in America.  This will undoubtedly force upon the Marshallese people and their culture a massive evolution as they've already gone through in the past 150 years.  They have journeyed from a primitive hunter-gatherer society focused around warfare and local traditions to a real melting pot culture that has mixed traditional Marshallese culture with that of modern capitalism and come out with something somewhat indescribable.  They are a country dependent upon generous foreign aid and reparations from generations of disrespect, but the Marshallese are a unique people who are trying to adapt their lives to craziness of a fast paced modern society.  

I am sure from this description you're more confused and even have less of an idea what Majuro and the Marshall Islands are like, but I tried.  Maybe you just have to go there.  I can also recommend a few fantastic books and films.  

Books: Surviving Paradise by Peter Rudiak-Gould, and For the Good of Mankind by Jack Niedenthal

Films: Radio Bikini, and The Sounds of Crickets at Night

I think those would be more helpful than asking me, but here was my futile attempt and describing Majuro, The Marshall Islands and Marshallese culture.  I'm quite certain there are those who have different opinions and I'd love to hear them...

Loving Chicago, Missing Majuro

We have been home in Chicago now for about 2 weeks.  It has been a fantastic time seeing friends and family and doing a lot of relaxing.  I have been playing a bunch of golf with friends and in tournaments and it's been really nice to play again.  Janae and Neyla have spent a lot of time playing with cousins and enjoying the cool Chicago weather.  After being in Majuro for 6 months Chicago is like a culinary explosion for us.  We have enjoyed Tapas, Chicago style Pizza and delicious Italian food.  None of those are accessible in the beautiful Marshall Islands.  Of all of these great things, there are some things that we miss about Majuro. 

We miss the simpleness of not having a TV and a cell phone.  It seems that since we have been home we've watched way too much TV and been on our iPhone way too much.  When you have these conveniences of modern life it is difficult to not use them.  I have read for 0 minutes since we have returned and spent too much time watching TV.  In my defense, the US Open was on last week and I hadn't been able to watch golf in several months, so that's my rationalization.  I am surprised how just by having technology as an option it sucks you into using it more than you ever would.  If living in Majuro has shown us anything it is that you really can create better more fulfilling relationships and spend more time exercising if you just do not have technology.  Janae and I have discussed and agreed that when we do return to the States, we will not get cable as it just eats up so much time that we could spend together and/or exercising and/or reading.  

Technology is obviously not a bad thing in and of itself.  In fact, there are so many great things that our modern technological society allows us today, but when we become too dependent upon it or rely on it too much, we clearly lose something.  

In Majuro I read more books than I could have ever imagined.  I was more fit than I had been in the last 10 years and I was able to spend more time with people building relationships.  Majuro has helped to reveal to us what truly is the most important things in life and we are excited to return for one more year in August.  

Summer Fun in the USA

            Another school year is quickly coming to an end and with it a trip back to the United States for Janae, Neyla and I.  We have greatly enjoyed our first 6 months in Majuro and look forward to returning next school year with a much clearer picture of what to expect and how to make the most of our time here in the Marshall Islands.  Our trip back home will be a welcome breather to see our friends and family and to recharge our batteries for next year.  Janae has finally finished teaching her Algebra course and has wisely decided to take next year and just stay home with Neyla and enjoy island life.  This year was a challenge for me since I’d never come in midway through a year and taken over for another teacher.  I loved my students and wish I could have had an entire year with them and I will miss them next year, but am excited for my new crop of 8^th graders. 

            We are looking forward to many things in the States this summer.  Aside from the obvious of spending quality time with our friends and family both in Chicago and Colorado, the top of our list includes Mexican food and some great deep-dish pizza!  I, of course, will be looking forward to playing some golf and competing in a few tournaments and hopefully it won’t take me too long to find my game.  Janae is strangely looking forward to eating at Applebee’s and Cheesecake Factory, but also as a desire for some Tapas and I’m on board with that one. 

            We will be back on June 6 in Chicago and hope that we can see everyone possible.  My phone is gone forever and I have no number, so you have to contact us through Janae’s phone!  Please email or message us on Facebook if you need that number or would like to see us during our short vacation in America.  

Mr. Keating: A True Educator

            I have just revisited the great film from 1989 entitled, “Dead Poets Society.”  It is one of those films that you must make a point of revisiting every so often, especially if you’re a teacher!  There are so many inspirational and moving poems and quotes in the film, but I think there are 3 parts of the film too often overlooked.  First, I love the dedication the young kids have to their studies.  No question it is often misguided and for all the wrong reasons, but a great teacher can give that motivation a proper compass and steer those kids the right directions.  Second, is Mr. Keating’s passion for his students to develop “outside of the classroom.”  Clearly he is great inside the classroom, but it is his concern and compassion for his students to develop as complete well-rounded people.  Finally, the ending.  Mr. Keating, despite being the best role-model and inspiration any of these students have ever had, loses his job.  Sometimes doing the right thing takes some sacrifice, and Mr. Keating knew that. 

            The various characters are clearly similar in so many ways.  They are all young, rich, white boys who attend the best Prep School in America.  However, they each have a unique character about them.  The one similarity they all share, due to their similar backgrounds, is a seriousness about their education.  Even when they have a bad teacher, and there are many examples of the old fogy teachers teaching quite badly, they still stay focused, respect their teacher and give it their best.  There’s a sense that they are studying for a higher purpose and they aren’t going to let some ridiculous teacher ruin their success.  Great teachers inspire students to do their best and work hard, but there are great many lessons that can be learned by students when they don’t have a great teacher.  It can show their true character to not sit back, complain and blame someone else, but instead to show that person that they can’t hold you down.  Don’t get me wrong, I think that many of these boys are trying hard for all the wrong reasons and they do things more out of fear than any real desire to better themselves as people, but a great teacher, as Mr. Keating, will surely take these boys’ amazing work ethic and point it in a proper direction.  He will help them to find authentic reasons to study and work hard and then the students’ lives will truly be all that they can be, and not some shallow reflection of their parents’ lives. 

            Someday our students will no longer be our students.  Someday students will become the generation that leads their nation and world.  It is a teacher’s job to prepare students for the future, not just to earn certain grades or for standardized tests or for admission into a particular college, but it is our duty to make them better people and in turn prepare them for their life outside of school.  In the film, it is very clear which teachers are preparing their students for just the next exam and which teacher is preparing the students for life.  Mr. Keating is a role model for all teachers.  He cares very much for his students as people.  He teaches a poetry class, and readily admits that this may not be a “practical” class for most of his students who want to be doctors and lawyers, but he appeals to their humanity, saying that poetry is about love and emotion, the things that we can’t calculate and measure, but that everyone has!  He wants to educate the “whole person” and for them to be in touch with all sides of their brains and develop their entire person, not just a part.  Mr. Keating surely teaches the curriculum, but he goes beyond that narrow mandate to truly give his students an education and help to make them better people. 

            Maybe the most overlooked part of the story is the fact at the end that Mr. Keating loses his job with integrity.  Too often people will do anything to keep their job, often times not speaking “truth to power” and not standing up for what is right.  Mr. Keating knows what is right and knows that he is fighting an uphill battle against “traditional” teaching methods.  He realizes that there is a gigantic difference between teaching and educating.  If you educate the whole person and help them to become better people with a clear base of priorities, then good grades, entrance into college and job prospects will follow.  If a teacher doesn’t educate the whole person then we have people floating through life who may have good grades and a job, but who are self consumed and narrow-minded.  That doesn’t make the world a better place for them or our children.  Too often school and teachers are short term oriented around goals that in themselves do not produce better people.  The catch is that if we try to produce better people all of those short-term goals will be achieved through the journey of becoming the best person that they can be.

            Mr. Keating is clearly an amazing teacher.  The only thing that is greater than his passion for poetry is his passion and love for his students.  That is evidenced by how he attempts to offer his students work ethic a proper compass, how he works diligently to educate the whole person and how he was willing to risk his own personal security to do what was right for his students.  Because of this, the future for Mr. Keating’s students and all students of great teachers has opened wide and students begin to see the world and the possibilities of their lives from a whole new perspective. 

             

This is 40... or just ridiculous people?

         There are no movie theaters in Majuro, so here you are able to download movies for free from the internet legally, so that’s what we do.  Janae and I have watched some great movies lately, and some that were thoroughly frustrating.  She loved The Hobbit and I absolutely hated it.  We both loved Silver Linings Playbook, that film comes highly recommended from the Rusins; however, we both were intensely frustrated by Judd Apatows new movie (I won’t call it a film), This is 40.  We both usually enjoy Apatow’s and Paul Rudd’s films and take them for what they are, hilarious films that deal with pretty small issues.  However, in This is 40 Apatow seems to attempt to get the movie goer to sympathize for a family going through economic hardships, who have clearly done themselves in by their extravagant, prideful and silly economic choices and were in no way innocent victims (as so many were) of the financial crisis.  Rather this couple were the ones who were the problem.  They over extended themselves buying a $90,000 car, 7 figure home and extravagant weekend vacations all while both of their small businesses were doing quite poorly.  They were living the typical generation X lifestyle of “keeping up with the Jones’s,” in which little money is saved and all of their money is spent on self-indulgence. 

           

            There were many people who lost so much during this recent economic collapse.  Many lost much or all of their retirement savings, jobs were lost, homes devalued and people’s futures got murky.  Many people lost so much through no fault of their own.  But the characters in Apatow’s film were not these people.  They weren’t innocent victims, but instead they are representative of how so many individual American’s choices greatly assisted in the downfall of financial collapse of 2008.  Too many Americans had such little money in savings and had invested huge amounts in extravagant homes and took too big of loans out on houses that they had no businesses even thinking of buying in the first place.  Couple these cultural problems of over extension and lack of savings together and the middle class themselves become unsustainable.  Don’t get me wrong, I think there is plenty of blame to go to Wall Street, in fact, they get the majority of the blame in my opinion, but too many Americans were unwilling to take a look in the mirror when the financial crisis came and too eager to blame other people or institutions. 

            To me this shows a lack of practical wisdom that so lacks in a mass consumer society.  Gandhi once said, “Live simply, so that others may simply live.”  The Mahatma understood that economics was not a zero sum game, but he also understood that if you can meet your needs and your wants so easily, then it is your human duty to help others gain some opportunity to be able to do what you have done.  All too often Americans are known for their self-indulgence, rather than for their kindness and compassion.  I hope that we can change this.  I hope that Americans would not just continue to buy and build bigger houses, but assist their fellow man to gain a step up on the ladder of opportunity by supporting efforts for clean water, schools, infrastructure, micro-loans, and more that don’t just help ourselves, but help the world become a more compassionate and understanding place.

            In Apatow’s This is 40, there are unquestionably some amusing moments, but I thought the story was the worst he’s ever written.  He was trying to draw sympathy for people who should have been more sympathetic themselves instead of self indulgent with their material possessions.  I full-heartedly believe that they best way to help yourself is to help others.  Then and only then will you truly find fulfillment in life.  The characters in this film are petty and self-indulged.  At one point the wife has a problem with her husband helping out his own family to the tune of $80,000, but she clearly has no problem driving a BMW that is worth more than that or living in a home that is easily in the million dollar price range.  The characters Apatow creates are not deserving of sympathy, but they are, sadly, all too American.   

Adventure or Near Death?

           Today was an experience of which I’ve never had and probably never will again.  But more on that later, let’s start with yesterday’s fun and comparatively simple day. 

            Kosrae has been a great time.  These small Micronesian islands have a warmth and kindness that an American is just not used to.  People will offer to watch your baby or give you a lift almost anywhere you’d like to go.  Yesterday we had a blast taking a native Outrigger canoe ride through a UNESCO protected ecosphere of mangroves and coral.  It was truly a one of a kind experience.  It was just me, Janae, Neyla and our tour guide.  There were canopied paths cut through the magnificent mangroves that made you feel like you were in some fake Disney ride, except it was brilliantly real.  Towards the end of the canoe ride we saw a small island with old Japanese buildings on it from WW2 and went up the largest river in Kosrae.  On this small river we saw some amazing plants and trees that apparently only grow around this river.  There was a tree that was essentially a palm leaf, but it grew up to 20 ft. high and was about 5 ft. in width.  Again, it was like traveling down a river from the movie Avatar, but yet again it was real! 

Janae and Neyla by the "entrance" to the Lelu Ruins.  

            It was quite an amazing day that culminated with the three of us going to the ruins in Lelu where the King of Kosrae reigned in the 1400’s.  This was a strange experience in that housing surrounded the ruins and the entrance was behind an ACE Hardware.  When we arrived at the small blue sign that said, “Lelu Ruins,” we looked at each other and thought it was a joke.  As you can see by the photos, you must slide against a chain-linked fence with grass up to your hips, as there is not a path carved through the rainforest.  We decided to do this, but once you get to the ruins they are extremely old and still a lot of mystery surrounds them.  All the Micronesian islands used to have a sort of feudal system and Kosrae was no exception.  The King used to live amongst these ruins in an effort to stay separated from the “commoners.”  We concluded our walk in Lelu by simply walking around the village meeting locals and taking in the sights the village had to offer. 

            Today; I really don’t even know where to begin with this story.  Our hiking experience in Kosrae turned into an adventure unlike any that we have ever had and one I can’t imagine having again.  Janae and I love hiking and we were excited to hike again in Kosrae, but there were several issues with our hiking today.  First, the last few days or so have been very rainy, even by Kosraean standards.  Because of this, we couldn’t go all the way to the top of the mountain, but as you’ll soon see, that was a relief for us.   

            Our tour guide, Phillip, was picking us up at our hotel at 9:00 am.  The early morning was rainy, but by 8:30 the clouds had broken a bit and Phillip said that it’d be a day filled with blue skies.  We were astonished that our guide arrived at our hotel 30 minutes early, usually “island time” is about 30 – 90 minutes behind, but Phillip was rearing to go at 8:30.  We quickly got ready and for the first time ever-handed Neyla off to a “stranger.”  Her name was Sofila and she was a kind woman who worked at our hotel and offered to watch Neyla.  We were told by Maria, the owner of our hotel, that NO WAY could Neyla go on the hike with us.  We were a bit surprised by this since we always took her on “intermediate” hikes in Colorado and didn’t expect this hike to be too much different. 

            We got into Phillip’s car and he apologized for it being an “island car.”  What he meant by this was that there was no radio, no inner lining on most of the car (wires were showing all over) and he had to hot wire it to get it started.  We paid no mind and headed off for our hike.  He explained to us that two people who live on a yacht in the Bay were also going to join us, so we made a quick stop to pick up a young Aussie couple, Ben and Wendy.  They were perfectly nice people and had been travelling around the Pacific for the better part of the last year on their yacht. 

Janae and Phillip starting on the paved trail.

            We were now en route to the belly of the “sleeping lady” of the island.  We arrived in Phillip’s small village and took a small pot holed road up towards his house and the beginning of the trail.  A short mile long road took more than 10 minutes in Phillip’s “island car” and the pot-marked road.  When we arrived at his house he had us sign some hand written waivers, gave us some walking sticks and showed us his certification as a tour guide from the Chinese government.  He was the only licensed tour guide on the island and he made his relatively modest living this way.  He and some of his friends had started the hiking trail off with some concrete and rope, which was very helpful and also gave us a false sense of security for the hike.  In less than 10 minutes the concrete and rope ran out and it was now us and nature.  Phillip explained that his dream was to pave and rope the whole path and to gain even more tourists.  He wanted to leave this to his children.  He told a beautiful story how every great achievement is generational and he wanted his children to finish someday what he had started.   

            As we made our way up the mountain the clouds had returned.  Since we couldn’t go all the way to the top of the mountain our goal was to see the triple waterfall and to go through some of the Japanese tunnels that were built during WW2.  Phillip said the entire hike would take about 3 hours, or so he thought.  As we were about halfway up I realized this was much more intense of a hike than what Janae and I had usually done in Colorado.  That was partially because we always hiked with Neyla and partially because the hikes in Colorado are so well marked and the trails are easy to follow.  On a scale of 1-10 I would have put this hike at about an 8.  There were many difficult climbs on our way up, the ground was still quite slippery and there were several instances where one slip up would send you down deep into the jungle below never to be found.  Little did I know that this part was barely a 2 on Kosraean difficulty. 

Janae walking through the Japanese tunnels. 

            We made it up with no problems.  We explored the Japanese caves from WW2 and as we did it started drizzling a bit outside.  We couldn’t feel it much since the canopy of trees overhead was so thick, but it started to rain much harder while we were in the tunnels.  I had always heard of and studied the Japanese tunnels, but to actually see them and go in them was an amazing experience for a history teacher.  As we walked into one of the tunnels in the heart of the mountain it was shocking how dark and quiet it was up there, but as we exited the tunnel it became clear that it was now pouring outside. 

            Shortly before we entered the tunnel Phillip looked at me, Janae, Wendy and Ben and said, “I usually don’t take people down the ‘other way,’ but since you all look fit, I will today.”  I wasn’t quite sure what this meant other than we weren’t going down the way we came, which I was glad about because I thought it would be quite difficult to go back down that way… little did I know that would have been a much easier voyage.  From the Japanese tunnels we began our voyage to the triple waterfall and then back down the mountain to Phillip’s house.  As we did, I slipped and fell straight on my butt and as I did, so too did Ben.  The pouring rain had gotten the better of us and we were both not only soaked, but had hit the same slippery pile of mud and wiped out almost simultaneously.  By now the rain had been pouring steadily for at least 10 minutes and we were as wet as if were in the shower.  We also still had at least an hour or two of hiking in front of us. 

            Shortly after we both fell, Phillip stopped to give us a bit more information on a Japanese tunnel and building that were here and he casually mentioned, “I am worried this trail will be flooded by the rain and the river.”  But he had also mentioned that it wasn’t wise to turn back now.  This didn’t fill me with much confidence and I was the only one of us four who heard him, so I kept plugging away behind his lead.  We soon reached the triple waterfall and it was quite breath taking.  The major problem with this hike was that it was so wet and slippery that I couldn’t take my eyes off the step just in front of me, so I missed taking in much of the beauty that surrounded me.  But, here at the waterfalls we stopped for about 10 minutes and took in the beauty.  I snapped a few photos and a video, but then realized because of the rain I had to put my camera in Ben’s waterproof backpack.  As Phillip and Janae finished off their swim in one of the basin’s of the waterfall I looked around and didn’t see a trail.  I started to get a bit nervous, but little did I know that our first cross over this river and these falls would be one of the easiest. 

The last picture we were able to take before the camera had to be put away.  

            The reason that Phillip doesn’t take many people on this “trail,” is because there really isn’t a trail and it is quite steep.  From the waterfalls we walked up the side of a rather steep bank grasping to roots of trees, tree limbs, really anything that allowed you to not fall back all in the hopes of not slipping.  We went around the third of the falls, but then had to scale down a small muddy path with some stones and tree roots to get back down to the river so that we could cross to the other side.  Janae looked back at me and smiled and I quivered with fear.  That’s what I love about Janae, she truly saw this as a great adventure that we could share and I was wondering if we’d make it out alive.  We carefully crossed the river a few times by stepping carefully on wet and mossy stones above the rushing rapids of the river, which had greatly picked up its current with the still pouring rain.  These were just two of the roughly 15 times that we would have to cross this river. 

            Each time we crossed the river we would have to go a bit deeper into the river.  The water was rushing so rapidly that the stones that you would normally walk across were now submerged underneath the running water.  When I asked Phillip if most of his tours were like this, he looked at me and said, “No.”  In all honesty, this worried me a bit, mostly because he looked a little worried and not only was he a native Kosraean, but he was the only certified guide on the island and had been doing this for over 20 years.  Each time we had to cross, he would slowly scale down the muddy bank and make us aware of any really slippery parts, then he’d walk across the river about calf or knee deep telling us where to walk and always warning us to use our walking sticks because of the current.  After we had crossed the river about 8 times we had hit a large field of grass up to one’s knees.  There was a small trail carved in the grass and I had hoped and thought we were finally almost to his house and finished.  In fact, the worst was yet to come and we still had more than another hour of hiking.  The rain was so intense that even though we were now on dry land, the water was almost entirely covering our shoes. 

            To my dismay I now heard the river yet again.  I started to see it on my right, but thought that there was no way we’d possibly have to pass it again, but I was wrong.  The next 4 or 5 crossings are now a blur.  I cut up my left ankle a bit on a rock, but other than that we passed pretty unscathed, but it’s the last two crossings that will stay with me.  By this point the river reminded me of white water rapids and while it was only about 12 feet across, that looked quite far since there were no longer rocks to guide us across in anyway.  We had to now swim or scale the bottom across.  Phillip is not a tall man, maybe 5’6’, but he took his backpack and machete and threw it across the river and was stomach deep in this rushing water as he crossed.  He told us to be careful and use our sticks and we should be fine.  We found a few rocks to help us across, but I got caught in the current and thankfully Phillip grabbed my hand and helped me across.  The same then happened to Wendy and she got flung further than I did and Phillip and I were able to grab her and help her to dry ground as well.  We all were relieved to make it over this pass, but had no idea that 10 minutes ahead was one that would be even more dangerous. 

            As we walked along the river Phillip told us that we only had to cross the river once more and then his house was just 15 minutes up the trail once we crossed over.  As we approached the last point to cross, I thought it was a joke.  We all looked at each other and all clearly thought, “there’s no way.”  Phillip said that he would go first and get a long stick that we could each grab onto and he would pull us across.  As Phillip went across he was almost armpit deep.  This river of white rapids was about 4 and a half feet deep and if you got taken by the current, who knows?  There were all sorts of rocks, boulders and mini waterfalls that awaited you.  Philip went to the other side and wanted me to come first.  I put a foot down in about 3 foot of water, grabbed the stick with two hands tightly (as he had instructed) and walked hard across the river.  I made it across, but that current was much stronger than I imagined.  Janae came next and I helped Phillip hold the stick and make sure that he was balanced to pull her over and she made it rather easily.  We were relieved and yet I was still a bit frightened at the same time. 

            Wendy went next and for some reason, she didn’t want to walk across the bottom.  She grabbed the large stick that Phillip had and then tried to leap through the current, but as she did, the current took her.  It was quite scary.  She started going down the river, but Phillip held onto the stick firmly.  As she tried to hold on tightly I was able to grab her other hand and we pulled her up to safely.  She said that Ben had told her to try that to avoid the current, but it didn’t work.  Now Ben still had to come over and I was afraid he was going to try the same thing, and he did.  Ben was a pretty adventurous guy and had done the whole hike in bare feet just like Phillip, and now he was attempting to go through this last river pass all by himself.  Phillip held out the stick, but manly Ben wouldn’t take it.  Only when he slipped did he grab it and then he too jumped and this time he was taken by the current.  He pulled Phillip in and Phillip was lucky to pop back out of the river and grab a nearby rock.  Ben rushed down stream for about 20 feet before fortuitously grabbing a palm tree branch and getting out of the river.  For a short time I was terrified that both would just keep going and Wendy too look extremely frightened.  Ben laughed it off, but Phillip was clearly a bit hurt.  He said the river forced him under and he hit the bottom.  We regrouped, gathered our stuff and headed the last 15 minutes for Phillip’s house.

            We all arrived with just a few minor scrapes and bruises, but it was quite the adventure.  As I look back now it certainly makes for a great story, but I won’t lie, there were several times where I started thinking, “here we are on this beautiful island, in this isolated rain forest and if someone falls and breaks their leg, or worse, there’s nobody around to come and help us.”  I think for now, I’ll just go back to the Colorado intermediate hikes that I can enjoy with Neyla in a Bjorn.  The mountain, rain forest, pouring rain, no trail, waterfall, rushing rapids hikes may be just a bit over my head. 

Vacation on a Lost Island

            Yesterday Janae, Neyla and I headed off for a 6-day adventure to a small and isolated island in Micronesia called Kosrae.  The island is not at all like Majuro.  It is not a series of tiny flat islands, but a mountainous island with beautiful dense rainforests.  The island was such that there was no room for an airport, so a small reef island was built off the northeast coast to accommodate an international airport.  Believe it or not, this airport was even smaller than the Majuro airport.  There was a tiny 8x10 room where customs checked you in and then the baggage claim room was about the size of a large hotel room.  When you left these tiny rooms and opened the doors you felt like you were in the show Lost or in the movie Jurassic Park.  There seemed to be little or no modern development and the jagged mountains and cliffs were draped in bright green jungle trees and plants.  I had never seen anything like it. 

            Our hosts who own the pristine and natural Pacific Treelodge Resort greeted us at the airport and drove us on the small canopied road around a few tiny villages and dwellings to the east side of the island to our home for the next 6 days.  The Lodge was built into an amazing mangrove just across the tiny road from a magnificent bay.  Our room was nice and clean and tropical, but the best part of this Micronesian gem of a lodge was the restaurant.  There was a narrow bridge that was built through the mangrove rainforest and on it was a small sign labeled, “restaurant.”  As we walked through the mangrove across this bridge you were transported to a swampy mangrove with beautiful trees and plants and after about 100 yards of the bridge was a beautiful canal whose depth fluctuated by the rising and sinking tides.  The restaurant was built as a sort of massive pier above the mangrove and canal and with an incredible view of two lush mountain peaks.  It was undoubtedly one of the best views I had ever seen. 

            After we had lunch at this beautiful place, we ventured for a walk to Lelu Village.  Lelu village was one of the 5 small villages on Kosrae.  The people there were warm and welcoming and offered to help us find our way.  The green natural beauty of the village was a breath of fresh air from over-crowded Majuro.  Along our walk we saw several local fishermen with nets and spears, Peace Corps volunteers jogging, local women cutting down the tiny native bananas and the “Sleeping Lady of Majuro.”  This “woman” can be seen in the mountains of the island.  The horizon of the mountains of the island appeared as if there was a gigantic woman lying down on her back.  The ancient legend of the island says that originally the gods had put a man there, but that only a woman could birth a nation of people.  So, the gods put a woman to watch over the island. 

            A gracious couple, Mark and Maria, owns our lovely Lodge.  Maria is Italian by origin, but came here 6 years ago as a diving tourist and decided to stay.  She is incredibly kind and warm and invited Neyla to an Easter Egg Hunt last night and then invited our whole family to an Easter Saturday dinner.  It was delicious and a fantastic way to spend our first night in Kosrae.  The Kosraen staff at the lodge are also incredibly kind.  They offered to watch Neyla while Janae and I ate and played with her, read to her and allowed us to have a meal to ourselves.  The Micronesian people love babies and will always offer to watch your baby, and as much as we love Neyla it’s nice to have a 10 minute break during a meal every so often. 

            Today is Easter Sunday here and we are having a nice quiet day.  As it is in the Marshall Islands, Sundays are truly days for rest where nothing is open.  Our first 24 hours in Kosrae has been magnificent and we are excited for the rest of our week.