Greetings from Majuro... First Impressions

           My first impression of Majuro was from the sky.  As we approached I saw a very small Atoll out of the plane window that looked both desolate and beautiful.  Shortly thereafter I saw another Atoll and knew it was Majuro.  It was the right shape and I could see ships and the “downtown” area, but it was much smaller than I had imagined.  This excited both Janae and I as we were looking forward to living in a small community.  We banked left and headed in for a landing at the tiniest landing strip that I had ever seen.  At the end of the runway we took a slight left turn and arrived at the “terminal.”  This was by far the smallest airport that I had ever seen, but it was open air and very quaint.  The Republic of Marshall Islands’ customs office was built and supported by both the American and Australian governments.  It was a quick process to get in and if you simply turn around, baggage claim is right there.  It too is all open air and is a few guys empting luggage into large wooden crates and forklifting them the 150 yards to a small ramp where people hustle over to claim their luggage. 

(Baggage Claim in Majuro)

            We had checked 3 bags total and 2 came rather quickly, but Neyla’s pack n’ play hadn’t yet arrived.  It was looking as if it wasn’t coming, since we were one of the few people still waiting for a bag, but the attendant kept telling me there were more bags coming.  I quickly gave up on this promise as I saw the United 737-800 pulling away from the quaint terminal and back onto the runway to head to another Marshallese island called Kwajalein.  I filled out some paperwork and the kind Marshallese United manager, JC, promised they would deliver it as soon as it arrived or they found it or whatever.  Bear in mind that this whole process took well over an    hour in a tiny space.  We weren’t upset and it was really no big deal, but it was a quick introduction to Marshallese culture.  It’s just slower paced here and we are elated about that.  I’m sure the pack n’ play will show up and when it does, Neyla can have her own bed.  Until it does show, she can sleep in between us like babies have always done for most of human history. 

            On the road that runs the length of Majuro Atoll we got a sense of the people and community.  It is very poor.  And despite this fact there are many people out enjoying the hot and humid weather.  There really is only one road on Majuro and when we asked what the name of it was nobody seemed to know.  I suppose if there is only one road it doesn’t need to be named.  We went over the only bridge on Majuro, which was also the highest point on the island and we passed by the Marshall Islands Resort.  This resort was built by the Marshall Islands government years ago to host some Pacific conference or another with the thought that having it would then spur tourism to the country.  This never happened.  The hotel remains mostly vacant at all times and time has surely taken its toll on the resort.  The views are incredible and the beaches are phenomenal for sure, but it’s becoming a bit dilapidated without any visitors.  There is a state of the art gym built by the Japanese government, a bowling alley and a movie theater, but they have all been closed down in the last 5 years.  There is no money to keep them alive and this has a direct negative affect on the youth.  Because of this there is little for the Marshallese youth to do in their free time.

            As we arrived at Majuro Cooperative School, where I will shortly be teaching 8^th grade, there were wild cats, dogs and chickens all playing in the vicinity.  The school facilities were nice, but in no way compared to the suburban schools of Chicago that I was used to.  There were shanties surrounding the school and as we pulled in all of the people waved happily at us.  We arrived at our new house on campus and were blown away by the views.  Our bedroom windows look out over the Pacific and we can smell the salt in the air and hear the waves crashing less than 15 yards from our house.  It is small and cozy and perfect.  I went out with my Principal and her partner to get some clean drinkable water and bed linens.  The stores were like smaller versions of a Costco and actually had some good deals and more of a selection of goods that I’d have imagined.  We stopped by the electric company and purchased some electricity and headed back to our new home to settle in and unpack. 

            As I write this it is 1:29 in the afternoon in Majuro and I have the two windows in our bedroom wide open.  The ocean breeze is rushing through our home and the crash of the waves is music to my ears.  Neyla is sleeping on our bed next to me and too is enjoying the beautiful orchestra of the Pacific.  It’s only been a few hours, but this is our dream come true.